Papua New Guinea Arrival

6 July 2000
We are motor sailing up the China Strait of South Papua New Guinea. We have been underway for 3 days crossing the Coral Sea from Australia. Its been a quick ride here, about 20 knots of true wind on the beam. With two reefs in the main and big jib we averaged about 10+ knots the whole way. Along with this fast ride where some pretty big seas so our bodies and equilibriums welcome the flat water inside the reefs of PNG.

The China Straight is intricate, winding through various New Guinea out islands like: Rogea, Samari, Ebuma, Bilo Bilolo, and Igwali. Its dark now so we find our way through here relying very heavily on radar as we slowly make our way against a 5 knot head current.

Standing outside, on the back deck, I'm privately soaking in this new place, The landscape is very green, rain forest mountains reach into the sky, their tops are hidden by the low clouds and moisture that they are self generating. They say that most of this rugged mountain land has barely been touched by humans and that there may be 100's of flora and fauna species that have not been discovered here, as it is impenetrable for the most part. The smell of cooking fires coming from the villages dotting the waters edge is thick in the air. This combined with the moist earthy smell is very distinct to the nose after three days of pure sea air.

This is a special landfall, a far away, rugged, well off the beaten path place that very few yachts venture to. I enjoy the solitude of the sea and the job, but moments like these are the times that I wish I had my friends and family with me to share and enjoy the experience.

11 July 2300 Latitude 10 35.001 S Longitude 150 41.8233 E

We are anchored off Tobai Island, in Possession Bay, named by Captain James Cook. Its a perfect anchorage; mirror flat water, great all around protection, good holding and a post card perfect setting of several palm thatch huts sitting under a perfect row of coconut palm trees, with an inviting powder sand beach plunging into the coral lined turquoise water.

We were warmly greeted by the Chief of Tobai- Simon. He had not had visitors from a yacht in years so where a novelty for the kids and his family. He proudly showed us around the village and explained how they are self sufficient. I enjoyed listening as he explained how he had lived in the city (Alotau) for a few years then moved back here because the city was to stressful. He said "when I live in the city I have to much stress because I have bills for rent and electricity....here on Tobai, we grow our own vegetables, catch our own fish, we own the land, I wake up when I want, I swim when I want, and I'm the Chief." Not to shabby...

Tobai is a typical PNG out island. The land is owned by the families that have inhabited it for long periods of time. Tobai is 4 miles long, 1/2 mile wide at its narrowest point and 2 miles at its widest. In all their are 20 villages on the island. Their is a co-op relationship amongst all of the villages to pool their resources, and various skills. On the island there is no electric, no plumbing, no Starbucks or 7 - Eleven's. They live off the land, the sea and their gardens. The only store bought items that they consume are rice, flour, soap and kerosene for the lanterns. When they need money the take fish and garden vegetables to the market in Alotau (about 30 miles away).

Simon and his two children have paddled out in their dug out outrigger canoes to visit. Simon with his, bushy afro, big smile, and Beetle Nut red stained teeth goes on (see post on Beetle Nut). He tells the story of how Captain James Cook came to name the bay, Possession Bay, He speaks like a proud ambassador and family historian, with strong English learned from 12 years of school.

What's compelling to me about the story of Possession Bay is that it was Simons ancestors that first met Captain Cook. Cook was the first "white guy" to discover most of the islands and countries that we have sailed in the last two years. The story goes that back in the 1600's Cook anchored the Endeavor to replenish stores and water. His crew took ashore a few hundred iron banded wood barrels for storing fresh water. When they returned to shore a day later they found Simons relatives happily sharpening their new machetes and knifes. Cook seeing this realized that many of the iron bands where missing from the wood kegs. Cook was upset that the iron bands where stolen, to teach Simons kin about "possessions" he in turn took a few hostages and held them until his property was returned.... In the end, after his lesson stunt, Cook gave the islanders back the tools they had forged and also gave them proper axes, knives and machetes from the Endeavors stock.

Simon also shared how cannibalism was a very real way of life here in this area and all of PNG just 100 years ago. Simon explained that at night the villagers would sleep in the mountains of Tobai Island to avoid the night beach attacks of rival tribes in search of dinner. In fact the Jeffrey Dhalmer diet was still practiced up until the 1960's in the Highlands of mainland PNG. No need to go into any more colorful detail here....Witch craft was also practiced and today, however illegal, sorcery is still practiced in remote areas of PNG. I'm pretty sure we are not in Kansas any more.

Before Simon and the kids left the boat we gave them a brand new soccer ball and a few other toys that we have packed for sharing with children along the way. They lit up.

Picking up the anchor the next morning to the sound of the roosters, I could see and hear a group of the Tobai village kids playing already...strange they would be up so early...they where laughingly kicking their new soccer ball around. On the beach Simon is waving his arms good bye to us. We give him a toot on the ships horn and return the waves in appreciation for a memorable anchorage and close up insight to life on a PNG island.

Click on the Papua New Guinea Images to the left for a slide show