Greenland in summer: Icebergs, snow-covered mountains

Reprinted from the Triton Mega Yacht News.
http://www.the-triton.com/megayachtnews/


Greenland in summer: Icebergs, snow-covered mountains
August 02,2007 By Lisa Jouris

Aug. 3, 2006 00:00Imerigsoq Island, Greenland (Just off the coast of Disko Island)
I am sitting here in the protected warm pilothouse during my anchor watch. The midnight sun lights the sky in soft blues, yellows and faded reds. The yacht is gently swinging on the anchor, giving an incredible view of the two narrow openings leading out to Disko Bay. It is hard to believe that at this hour it has the lighting of a typical 8 p.m. New England summer sky. The air is just about 40 degrees F and the water is only a mere 46. The visibility reminds me of a clear fall day with the crisp lines defining the objects surrounding you.
In the distance, peeking above the surrounding low-lying islands, are giant luminescent icebergs in various sizes and shapes extending to the height of New York skyscrapers. Not one berg is the same as another and the shapes are reminiscent of artwork gently floating by, like a parade for our viewing. They look so docile as they gently drift in almost predetermined course from their origination of the Ilulisaat Ice Fjord, which is our next scheduled destination.
Location: Latitude 69º01.07’ N, Longitude 53º17.17’ W.
Conditions: Light wind of 5 kts from W/SW at 259 True.
Aug. 4, 2006 15:35Entrance to Ilulisaat, Greenland
Our approach took my breath away, both by sight and the frigid air temperature. Capt. Tim Forderer slowed the engines down to almost neutral. I awoke, quickly got dressed, and ran up topsides. I was surprised by what I saw… 360 degrees of pure white walls of beautiful sculptured icebergs. There was barely enough patches of dark midnight blue water for a yacht our size to squeeze through. It was spectacular and intimidating at the same time.
We could see our final destination of Ilulisaat, but the walls of the ice blocked us from a direct approach. Tim directed the yacht with finesse, weaving in and out of the clusters of ice for the next 10 miles to the opening of the harbor. The size of these "mountains" made any vessel look like a peanut that could easily be crushed. Even so, the dangers of the soaring icebergs didn’t seem to bother the local fisherman as they proceeded with their typical day of catching cod, halibut, shrimp, and seal.
Perched up on the gray rocky mountainside, little wooden houses in hues of brilliant red, bright yellow and electric blue sat with smoke circling high from their chimneys. This is a pleasant welcome to any cold mariner. An eerie distant noise grows louder and louder. It becomes clear it is the howling of hundreds of sled dogs in unison. Supposedly, it is a common call in this town, where hunting with dogsleds is still an integral part of the Inuit lifestyle in the harsh winters.
The local fishery, Royal Greenland, was gracious enough to free a dock area for our use while staying in Ilulissat. Finding dock space here is like trying to go to a busy mall a couple of days before Christmas. This is one place in the world where a fishing boat won’t hesitate to pull alongside you and raft up without giving it a second thought. Fishing is their source income and here boats outnumber the spaces available. On any given day, there will be a "parking lot" of fishing and/or harpoon boats of various bright colors and size, five to six deep from the wall. Imagine how long it would take for the most-inside boat to get out of this congestion to go fishing?
This town was one of the busiest ports that I have visited. Due to the midnight sun, there is a constant stream of fishing boats entering and exiting the waterways. I experienced one of my favorite memories during my iceberg watch at four in the morning. I had already been sipping on my mint orange tea and enjoying the sun "rising." The air was cool and the water in the port was almost like glass. It was totally peaceful and most people were nestled in their beds.
I faced out toward the mouth of the waterway and watched the icebergs float effortlessly by with a backdrop of painted skies with a whispy stroke of clouds. On the edge of the bay appeared a small open fishing dinghy slowly breaking the water to cause a small ripple. The fisherman stood tall while slowly maneuvering the boat into the harbor. He was clothed in warm overalls and a snug wool hat.
When he was within a boat length away, I could see two hunted seals that he proudly presented. A lot of thought was put into the precise positioning of the seals on each beam of the boat. As he passed, he noticed me and we exchanged a simple nod. He smiled proudly and returned to his dock.
Seeing this gave me a whole new appreciation for their time spent on the water and the risks they incur to make a living. They survive off the broad open ocean, since the country’s rocky land doesn’t provide vegetation possibilities. The Inuits have survived many generations from their traditions and will continue to do so for years to come.
Location: Latitude 69º13.71’ N, Longitude 51º11.96’ W.
Conditions: Light wind of 5-8 kts from S/SE at 173 True
Aug. 13, 2006 15:48Ten miles off of Taupagssuit, Greenland
To our port side are beautiful snow-peaked, jagged mountains with the sunset glow upon them. The mountains slowly slope down toward the water’s edge where there are grassy fields. The water is almost like glass, interrupted by the small ripples of the five-knot breezes moving across surface. There is a single fishing trawler off in the distance, slowly dragging his nets for his daily catch. Every once in a while a little dark seal pops up to play peek-a-boo and then dives down again.
Just when the sea seems so calm, a burst of white cloudy mist rises 15 feet in the air just off our starboard bow, 10 boat lengths ahead. Another one appears within seconds. Our attention is captivated by whales "grazing" the Greenlandic waters at a casual pace.
Knowing they would eventually cross our bow, we throttle back to neutral and coast to view them without endangering them. They approach within a boat length. Their large figures seem to break the surface effortlessly without even a wake. Tim quickly grabs the camera and leaves the warm pilothouse to capture the next couple of minutes on film.
After surfacing five times for air, the whales take their last breath and slowly descend. The first tail rises out of the air and we smile to see the white markings. The white patterns clearly designate these as humpback whales. The second joins the other and "waves" its tail. What an incredible experience to witness two humpback whales traveling northbound with a backdrop of calico, snow-laden mountains.
Location: Latitude 65º27.71’ N, Longitude 53º34.52’ W.
Conditions: Light winds of 5 kts from N/NE at 356 True.