Monday, August 7, 2006

Disko Bay

Disko Bay is amazing. We arrive in the bay in the fog at 0430. I have been weaving in and of house size icebergs seen only on radar for the past two hours. As the fog lifts I can see the Goliath iceberg I am rounding giving it a 100 yard berth, I make my turn towards the island we will anchor.
We make our approach into the entrance of the island in dead fog. I see the water on the depth gauge go shallow fast and I bring the boat to a stop. In this case enough to put us in an area of rock pinnacles. No way out but by brail, I station Lisa on the starboard side and Gordon (our Chef) on Port Side. The water is so clear that you can see the rock heads. The posts are my feelers, and eyes for the next 30 minutes they tell me right or left , using the thruster and the engine we slither out of the potential danger. We will later discover an error in our GPS Datum and the Chart Datum for the area that shows us on our electronic charts about 100 yards off.
We anchor the yacht in the most amazing setting. We are completely alone. Not a man made sound to be heard. The silence is deafening. Looking out through the entrance to our anchorage you see a steady parade of the gigantic ice structures that we came this far to see. We are at Latitude 69 N. At this Latitude it is day light nearly 24 hours a day.
We go ashore and explore an abandoned fishing village. We see the tilting racks that were once used to dry cod, we walk through an abandoned school house, and hike to the top of the hill to over look Disko Bay.. The sight is spectacular. The bay is covered by the newly calved very large icebergs. Seeing this sight I can put into perspective what I navigated through in the fog using only radar.
We are headed for Illuisat the only harbor in Disko Bay. The greatest tourist attraction in all of Greenland is the jaw-dropping Ilulissat Kangerlua (Ilulissat Icefjord), a berg-packed bay fed by the 3mi wide and 3608ft thick glacier Sermeq Kujalleq. The glacier flows an average of 82ft daily and it is the world's most prolific outside Antarctica.

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