Depth Survey the "Old School" Way...

Motoring back from the Market in the tender to our anchorage off Noosa Island I see a dugout canoe and a outboard powered boat working together in the channel. I was very curious what they where doing. The guy in the dug out canoe was dragging a line while being slowly towed by the outboard powered Panga.

I slowly pulled up and realized that they where doing a depth survey of the channel. Doing this with a lead line! I asked how long it usually takes to sound the channel and he showed me his hand sketched chart with soundings already
collected and said about one week.

I showed them that I had a digital depth sounder on board the tender, and their eyes lit up like the light bulb was discovered. I invited the chief surveyor aboard with his clipboard and we where off, zig zaging up the channel.

After one hour of readings we had finished what would have taken them a week the "old school" way!

You dont see this every day...

We are anchored stern to the pebble beach, our stern is 6 meters to the shore and tied off to a Betel Nut Palm tree. We are anchored in Dinah's Cove. We are told the story of the Skull Cave. Apparently their are piles of human skulls laying in testament to bygone rituals.

The story goes that when a warrior died the victim would be buried up to his neck in a crouched position with a clay pot covering his head. When the neck was soft enough the head would be twisted off and presented to the widow. She would then put the head in the eaves of her home for three weeks and then the skull would be ceremoniously placed in the cave.

We had to check this out... The local guide that told us this story leads the way...Sure enough a cave full of skulls. Standing over the pile of human remains, pretty speechless, the guide breaks the silence and picks a small child like skull up and says "you can take one if you want..."

Malaria was not in the plan...

Wikpedia: Malaria is a vector-borne infectious disease caused by protozoan parasites. It is widespread in tropical and subtropical regions, Malaria parasites are transmitted by female Anopheles mosquitoes. The parasites multiply within red blood cells, causing symptoms that include symptoms of anemia (light headedness, shortness of breath, tachycardia etc.), as well as other general symptoms such as fever, chills, nausea, flu-like illness, and in severe cases, coma and death.



The anti-Malaria pills do no good sitting in the medicine chest.... My "it wont happen to me" attitude regarding Malaria changed quickly after my blood test results at the Kavieng Hospital. I had been suffering from severe headaches and fever for about seven days. Being on a guest trip I worked through it popping Advil like M&M's. This is not to sound macho, the truth is I had no idea why I had the headaches and fever and I had no where to go to get it checked out until, the guest trip ended in Kavieng.

The Kavieng hospital is a whole other story in itself. A very basic facility tending to everything you can imagine. I was very concerned with leaving with more than I came in with. A few days later Lisa and I visited the Hospital and handed out some toys and small stuffed animals in the Pediatric ward. This was very uplifting for the kids in the ward, with not enough beds or doctors...

After a week of various medications to kill the parasite in my blood I was coming back to life and regaining my strength. Moral of the story, Malaria pills in the medicine cabinet are like a life jacket in the bottom of the boat...they do no good unless you use them....

Kavieng (PNG) 50 Year Catholic Jubilee

Guest Post by Father Bruno Junalie

Towards the end of July 2008 the Diocese of Kavieng (New Ireland Province - Papua New Guinea) staged a series of events to celebrate some important ocasions. The Youth Cross programe comes in line with the World Youth Day gathering in Sydney Australia during July 2008, where youths from around the world met with the Pope and other world church dignitaries. Thirty nine local New Ireland Province youths along with two Diocesan priests from the Diocese of Kavieng attended the world event.

The youths coming back from Sydney WYF08 arrived back to Kavieng on Friday 25th July to meet an jubilant and enthusiastic crowd at the Kavieng Airport, followed by a welcome Mass and dinner. On Saturday 26th July the youths from the Kavieng Deanery (Church District) enthroned or stationed the Diocesan Youth Cross on the hill adjacent to the Cathedral. This youth cross has been going around the Diocese for two years.

Then on Sunday 27th July, the Catholic Church in New Ireland Province which includes; Manus and the Duke of York Islands, celebrates its 50 year anniversary as a Diocese (Church Province). The whole week-end celebration was in line with all these events.
Dignitaries from the New Ireland Council of Churches, The Provincial Government, and other Christian Denominations and the Catholic faithful came together to celebrate this memorable occasion.

Their was an open air celebration of the Holy Mass presided over by his Lordship Reverend Bishop Ambrose Kiapseni MSC DD along with six priests and a Uniting Church Paster Concelbrating.

Light refreshment and lunch was served for guests and the public followed by speeches with the noted address from Bishop Ambrose and the Honorable Governor of New Ireland Province, Sir Julius Chan OBE CMG.

Singing and dancing came towards the later part of the day, with a display of many different cultural dances from the islands such as New Hanover, Tabar, Lihir and Tanga and some from the New Ireland mainland including Livitua, Lamusmus, Lemakot and Lamasong. Judging front he intensity of the displays of various dynamic and colorful dances, the performers have obviously put s lot of effort into preparation.

The vibrant and joyful atmosphere could be very profoundly felt even by those who came into just to observe. The singing and dancing continued well into the evening where every one was very tired. Eventually some have to travel back long distances by land and sea to their homes.

Father Bruno Junalie
Diocese of Kavieng
PO Box 49
Kavieng N.I.P
Papua New Guinea
diokug@global.net.pg

Father Bruno approached me as I was roaming around taking pictures of the event and asked if I would share them with the Church and local media. Obviously I was more than happy to do this. After about 3 hours in the "digital darkroom" I edited about 275 shots down to about 65 "keepers".

I met with Father Bruno the next day to give him the photo discs and look at them together. Father Bruno fired up the diocese computer, I think I could hear the tubes in the machine warming up, the donated relic from the Melbourne Australia Rotary Club, complete with floppy disc drive (pre cd drive circa). I'm glad I brought my laptop...as the floppy drive was obviously not going to work for the Photo DVD that I had burned with Picasa. Crowded around my laptop in the stifling hot room where several of the youths and the priests that attended the World Youth Program in Sydney. It was very rewarding to view the photos and see their reactions first hand.

After the slide show we talked about their trip to Sydney. Keep in mind that none of these guys have ever been off of the Island they live on, let alone on a long plane flight. It was very moving to see the strong emotions as they attempted to describe something that so awesome for them. To see their eyes well up and and hear their voices shake, as they described being apart of something so large, in an amazing city was very special.

Another one of those experiences that makes me really appreciate life, and the experiences that I am fortunate to have...

Click on the picture to the left of the "Cross Ceremony" to view a slide show of the finale event for this Celebration.

Papua New Guinea Arrival

6 July 2000
We are motor sailing up the China Strait of South Papua New Guinea. We have been underway for 3 days crossing the Coral Sea from Australia. Its been a quick ride here, about 20 knots of true wind on the beam. With two reefs in the main and big jib we averaged about 10+ knots the whole way. Along with this fast ride where some pretty big seas so our bodies and equilibriums welcome the flat water inside the reefs of PNG.

The China Straight is intricate, winding through various New Guinea out islands like: Rogea, Samari, Ebuma, Bilo Bilolo, and Igwali. Its dark now so we find our way through here relying very heavily on radar as we slowly make our way against a 5 knot head current.

Standing outside, on the back deck, I'm privately soaking in this new place, The landscape is very green, rain forest mountains reach into the sky, their tops are hidden by the low clouds and moisture that they are self generating. They say that most of this rugged mountain land has barely been touched by humans and that there may be 100's of flora and fauna species that have not been discovered here, as it is impenetrable for the most part. The smell of cooking fires coming from the villages dotting the waters edge is thick in the air. This combined with the moist earthy smell is very distinct to the nose after three days of pure sea air.

This is a special landfall, a far away, rugged, well off the beaten path place that very few yachts venture to. I enjoy the solitude of the sea and the job, but moments like these are the times that I wish I had my friends and family with me to share and enjoy the experience.

11 July 2300 Latitude 10 35.001 S Longitude 150 41.8233 E

We are anchored off Tobai Island, in Possession Bay, named by Captain James Cook. Its a perfect anchorage; mirror flat water, great all around protection, good holding and a post card perfect setting of several palm thatch huts sitting under a perfect row of coconut palm trees, with an inviting powder sand beach plunging into the coral lined turquoise water.

We were warmly greeted by the Chief of Tobai- Simon. He had not had visitors from a yacht in years so where a novelty for the kids and his family. He proudly showed us around the village and explained how they are self sufficient. I enjoyed listening as he explained how he had lived in the city (Alotau) for a few years then moved back here because the city was to stressful. He said "when I live in the city I have to much stress because I have bills for rent and electricity....here on Tobai, we grow our own vegetables, catch our own fish, we own the land, I wake up when I want, I swim when I want, and I'm the Chief." Not to shabby...

Tobai is a typical PNG out island. The land is owned by the families that have inhabited it for long periods of time. Tobai is 4 miles long, 1/2 mile wide at its narrowest point and 2 miles at its widest. In all their are 20 villages on the island. Their is a co-op relationship amongst all of the villages to pool their resources, and various skills. On the island there is no electric, no plumbing, no Starbucks or 7 - Eleven's. They live off the land, the sea and their gardens. The only store bought items that they consume are rice, flour, soap and kerosene for the lanterns. When they need money the take fish and garden vegetables to the market in Alotau (about 30 miles away).

Simon and his two children have paddled out in their dug out outrigger canoes to visit. Simon with his, bushy afro, big smile, and Beetle Nut red stained teeth goes on (see post on Beetle Nut). He tells the story of how Captain James Cook came to name the bay, Possession Bay, He speaks like a proud ambassador and family historian, with strong English learned from 12 years of school.

What's compelling to me about the story of Possession Bay is that it was Simons ancestors that first met Captain Cook. Cook was the first "white guy" to discover most of the islands and countries that we have sailed in the last two years. The story goes that back in the 1600's Cook anchored the Endeavor to replenish stores and water. His crew took ashore a few hundred iron banded wood barrels for storing fresh water. When they returned to shore a day later they found Simons relatives happily sharpening their new machetes and knifes. Cook seeing this realized that many of the iron bands where missing from the wood kegs. Cook was upset that the iron bands where stolen, to teach Simons kin about "possessions" he in turn took a few hostages and held them until his property was returned.... In the end, after his lesson stunt, Cook gave the islanders back the tools they had forged and also gave them proper axes, knives and machetes from the Endeavors stock.

Simon also shared how cannibalism was a very real way of life here in this area and all of PNG just 100 years ago. Simon explained that at night the villagers would sleep in the mountains of Tobai Island to avoid the night beach attacks of rival tribes in search of dinner. In fact the Jeffrey Dhalmer diet was still practiced up until the 1960's in the Highlands of mainland PNG. No need to go into any more colorful detail here....Witch craft was also practiced and today, however illegal, sorcery is still practiced in remote areas of PNG. I'm pretty sure we are not in Kansas any more.

Before Simon and the kids left the boat we gave them a brand new soccer ball and a few other toys that we have packed for sharing with children along the way. They lit up.

Picking up the anchor the next morning to the sound of the roosters, I could see and hear a group of the Tobai village kids playing already...strange they would be up so early...they where laughingly kicking their new soccer ball around. On the beach Simon is waving his arms good bye to us. We give him a toot on the ships horn and return the waves in appreciation for a memorable anchorage and close up insight to life on a PNG island.

Click on the Papua New Guinea Images to the left for a slide show

The Great Barrier Reef and Dwarf Minke Whales

4th of July 2008 It is only 1900 and above their is already a star speckled dark Australian night. Their are no city lights to wash out the stars this far north in Australia. We are about 130 miles north of the closest real city.

The fireworks would be starting about right now if I where back in the States. Technically not, as it's only 3 July in the USA right now. Over the past five years I have been treated to some amazing front row-on the water fireworks vantage points. I love fireworks... I hope that I never get to a point that I don't get totally jazzed up about a good fireworks display. I miss them tonight.

Their is plenty to keep me busy tonight on the 4th of July as I navigate through a narrow section of the shipping lane that runs inside the Great Barrier Reef. With the stark darkness outside, I rely totally on the MaxSea chart platter and the Furuno radar to guide us through the tight pass. On one side of the pass is Mt. Thomas - a large mountain jutting up from the waters edge, and one half mile across from that is the hungry Gibbon Reef, lurking there static, ready to snare a lazy navigator.

Their is fishing vessel off the starboard side in the pass, I grab the binoculars, step out side the protection of the pilot house to have a better look. I'm immediately hit by a blast of the Coral Sea's stinging salt spray. Since we left Lizard Island we have been laboring through 30 knot apparent winds and 1.5 meter stubborn seas - on the nose. I am reminded how spoiled we have been with our circumnavigation route that is routed and planned with the worldwide seasonal wind patterns (trade winds) working in our favor. Pushing us downwind to our next destination rather than clawing upwind against them.

We are heading back to Cairns after an amazing 5 days out on the Great Barrier Reef. We are going backwards to clear customs out of Australia bound for Papua New Guinea. I dropped the owner of the yacht off on the private postcard idyllic beach at the Lizard Island resort this morning by tender. Zipping across the various shades of blues and coral patches to the beach the private plane we have chartered for him flies in for a landing, every thing for the owner and guests are synchronized like a fine Swiss Watch. I mention to the owner "you know your in an amazing place when you step off your tender in to ankle deep sand with the sound of your private plane waiting on a run way only a 5 minute barefoot walk through a grove of palm trees". He smiles widely acknowledging a great trip so far. That genuinely sincere smile is one of the acknowledgements and rewards of the hard work that goes into it all.

During this GBR trip we where the first private yacht to be granted the use of a Minke Whale Permit. In order to do this we took on a live aboard guide, agreed to follow strict whale interaction protocol, and participate in the on going research data collection.

Dwarf Minke whales where first recognized as a distinct form of whale in the mid 1980's and there is still little known about them. They attracted attention in the northern Great Barrier Reef waters because they regularly approached close to boats and swimmers. While many countries have banned programs where visitors can swim with whales, a swim with whales industry has developed here in the northern GBR based on voluntary approaches of the Dwarf Minke Whales. To ensure the encounters have minimal impact on the whales, research is being focused on learning more about the whales interactions with swimmers. The goal of all the research is to manage the interaction between the dwarf Minke whale and humans so that it is ecologically sustainable.

To put it simply this swim with the whales program is all about the Dwarf Minke Whales interacting with humans on their terms, at their pace and at their choice. Quite opposite from other whale watching/swimming programs where you have several boats aggressively looking for whales speeding over to their location, hovering over them, ambushing them with a bunch of swimmers jumping in the water....

We arrive at Light House Bommie, a very large coral head located near Ribbon Reef #10. Its important to say as well by securing the permit and taking part in the research every spot we went to we had to our selves. This privacy in such an amazing place is hard to put into words- you really forget for while that their is a whole other world on the other side of the reef. This is a spot that the Minke come back to each year. As we arrive to the mooring, dead on the waypoint bullseye. it is magical, immediately several large Minke are surfacing around the boat. Their is no doubt that they are calling us out to play.

We start off by trailing a 30 meter polypropylene line that has about 7 bicycle inner tubes tied into it and equally spaced. Trailing behind the boat, the plastic line floats on the surface we don our wet suits, masks, snorkels and fins and then one by one gently enter the water and take up our position on the line. Within minutes we had company. The first Minke starts down the line coasting one meter from each persons face, making direct eye to eye contact. As you are looking ahead at one passing whale, another surprises you - a 20 footer, 3 ton whales coasts right under neath you, you do your best to keep your fins up so they do not graze him. You are speechless, in awe, stricken with admiration and the realization that you are having a completely natural encounter with several whales.

At first its a "wholly shit" reaction, a reaction of disbelief that something so big, from a world relatively unknown is coming so close to you. Then the emotions shift to a more powerful deeper experience... as you study them you see their grace, their curiosity, their complete trust in you, you feel a connection as you look eye to eye... The most powerful emotional experiences that I have ever had where the birth of my two children and the death of my father, this day is now in at number four.

When you are out at the Great Barrier you literally are "out there". Over a hundred miles from any real civilization. The trade winds blow a steady 20 25 knots from the South East. The seas outside the reef are running about two meters. You anchor or moor behind the reef for some resemblance of protection but that is diurnal at best. When high tide arrives the reef is awash and you are much more exposed. We had our share of dragging anchors and broken mooring lines, enough to make for very little sleep and 24 hour anchor watches.

PS - It's 0630 8 July. I am finishing this GBR journal anchored in Alotau Papua New Guinea. Arriving here after a 500 mile 10 knot beam reach across the Coral Sea. Its a little surreal as I sit outside typing on my Sony Vaio Laptop computer drinking nice bold coffee from my ceramic Starbucks Mug, listening to Jack Johnson's - "Thicker than Water" CD. I am surrounded by about 35 local handline fisherman in dug out log canoes, wild dogs going crazy barking to the left, three little barn swallow birds are sitting on the running back stay line chirping away, the odd rooster that's waking up late is carrying on, the lingering smell of cooking (and rubbish) fires all against the stunning back drop of the lush rain forest mountain peaks.

Click on the Great Barrier Reef Image to the left to see a slide show.